Waterproof Swimming Gear Bags: Drainage and Chlorine Spec

Mesh Bag, Wet-Dry Backpack or Kit Bag: The Three Formats

Swim kit storage comes in three formats and they solve three different problems. A mesh bag solves only one problem, which is carrying wet kit home, and it does that better than anything else because the water simply leaves. A wet-dry backpack solves two problems: it carries wet kit and it keeps dry kit dry, which means it is a real bag rather than a sack. A kit bag or holdall solves a third problem, which is volume, and it is what a swimmer uses when they are carrying fins, a kick board, two towels and a change of clothes to a meet.

The commercial difference between the three is larger than the functional one. A mesh bag is a low-unit-cost, high-volume item that is almost always sold branded to a club, and it is a promotional vehicle as much as a product. A wet-dry backpack is a considered retail purchase with a real margin in it. A kit bag sits between them. We recommend that a brand entering swimming leads with the wet-dry backpack, because the mesh bag segment is where the price competition is and the margin is thin.

One thing all three have in common and that distinguishes them from every other bag on this site: the bag is expected to be wet on the inside on every single day of its working life. A hiking pack gets wet occasionally. A swim bag holds a soaked towel, a wet costume and damp goggles from the first session to the last. Any material, adhesive, coating or thread chosen for a swim bag has to be chosen for permanent dampness, and that eliminates several otherwise standard options. The formats we build are shown on our products page.

Drainage Rate and the 20-Second Empty Test

Drainage rate is the number that separates a swim bag that works from one that becomes a puddle, and it is almost never measured. A bag holding a soaked towel and a wet costume can be carrying 1.5 to 2.5 litres of water, and when the swimmer lifts it, that water either leaves or it does not. If it does not, the bag gains 2 kg of weight, the water finds the lowest seam and then the car seat, and the bag smells within a week. We measure it as a rate in litres per minute and we require a target, not a hope.

The test is deliberately simple so it can be repeated at a brand's own facility. The bag is filled with 4 litres of water and suspended by its handles at working height. After 20 seconds the remaining water is measured. A pass on a mesh bag requires 90 percent of the water gone in that time and a pass on a wet-dry backpack requires 80 percent, because the welded wet compartment drains through grommets rather than through the whole surface. We record the result on every prototype and on a production sample from every lot.

The third row is the specification we build to for a wet-dry backpack and the fourth row shows why: two grommets is not four, and the difference is 1.4 litres of water still in the bag when the swimmer picks it up. We place four 8 mm grommets, two at each end of the wet compartment base, with the compartment floor cut to a shallow V so water is directed to them rather than pooling at one end. The grommets are welded in on a TPU build and bar-tacked into a reinforcement patch on a coated one, and we test the grommet retention as well as the flow.

Grommet retention is worth specifying separately because it fails more often than the flow does. A grommet set into a single layer of mesh or of coated fabric will tear out under the weight of 2 litres of water pressing against it, especially when the bag is carried and the water sloshes. We set every drain grommet into a 60 mm reinforcement patch, and we require the patch to be the same material as the body so it takes a weld or a bond rather than relying on the base fabric's tear strength. That is the difference between a drain that lasts a season and one that tears out in the first month.

Chlorine and Salt Degradation of Swim Bag Materials

Chlorine is the agent that makes a swim bag a different product from a gym bag, and it attacks in two places. In a chlorinated pool, the free chlorine residual in the water carried by a wet towel degrades elastane, degrades some adhesives and attacks uncoated polyester slowly. In the sea, salt crystal forming at a fold abrades the fabric mechanically. A bag that survives one will not necessarily survive the other, and the two exposures follow the two halves of the market: pool swimmers and open-water swimmers.

The material choices follow from that. We do not use elastane anywhere on a swim bag in contact with wet kit, which rules out the elasticated pocket mouths that look attractive on a sample. We use a silicone-cored shock cord or a webbing-and-cord-lock arrangement instead, because a silicone core does not degrade in chlorine the way a rubber core does, and it is the single most common premature failure we see on bags designed by people who have not worked in this category.

• No elastane or natural rubber in any elastic component; a silicone-cored shock cord with a cord lock instead
• Polyester mesh rather than nylon mesh, because polyester tolerates chlorine far better over a full season
• A TPU laminate rather than a PVC coating on any welded wet compartment, because plasticiser migration is accelerated by chlorine
• Polyester thread, not nylon, on every sewn seam, and a bonded rather than an adhesive seam tape on critical seams
• Acetal or nylon hardware, and no plated metal, because pool chlorine and sea salt both attack a plated finish

We verify this with a soak-and-age cycle rather than with a specification sheet. Finished samples are immersed in a chlorine solution at pool concentration for a total of 200 hours in repeated cycles, with a drying stage between each, and then in a salt solution for 100 hours. After the cycle we measure the retained hydrostatic head of the welded compartment to ISO 811, we check coating adhesion and abrasion to ASTM D751, and we physically flex every elastic component and every cord lock. A component that has stiffened or crazed is rejected.

The chemical side of compliance matters here too, and it is a point that surprises buyers. A swim bag is carried by children and it sits against skin, so the material set is checked against REACH requirements and we work to OEKO-TEX criteria for the fabric components. That is the reason we will not use a cheaper adhesive or an unspecified coating on this category even when a client asks for the saving, because the exposure route is direct and prolonged and the brand consequence of a positive test is far larger than the saving.

Wet Compartment Design and Separation Geometry

A wet compartment on a swim bag is not a waterproof pocket; it is a container that is allowed to be permanently wet on the inside and must stay dry on the outside. That is a different specification from the dry compartment on the same bag, and conflating the two is the most common design error in the category. A compartment built to 10,000 mm and then ventilated is useless, and one built as a mesh pocket leaks into the rest of the bag. The answer is a welded liner with a defined wall between it and the dry volume.

We build the wet zone as a welded TPU-lined compartment occupying the lower third of the bag, with a floor area sized for a folded towel plus a costume, and with a wall that continues to the top of the compartment rather than stopping short. The wall has to reach the top, because a liner that stops 40 mm below the rim lets water slop over into the dry volume whenever the bag is carried at an angle, and that is exactly how it is carried. The compartment is closed by its own roll or by a storm flap, and it drains through the four grommets described above.

There is a volume trade-off worth putting in front of a buyer at the sampling stage. A welded wet compartment occupies internal space and it makes the bag heavier, and a 30 L bag with a welded lower third holds about 20 L of usable dry volume. That is the correct answer for a swimmer who carries a soaked towel and a change of clothes, and it is the wrong answer for a swimmer who carries a kick board and fins, because those do not fit a compartment. We build a separate fin and board channel on the outside for that reason rather than trying to make the wet zone bigger.

Shell and Mesh Choices for Swim Bags

The swim category uses a wider range of materials than any other on this site, because the three formats genuinely need different things. A mesh bag needs aperture and tear strength. A wet-dry backpack needs a welded liner inside a breathable shell. A kit bag needs abrasion resistance at the base and no water retention anywhere. The one material rule that is common to all three is that nothing in contact with wet kit can be a coating or a thread that degrades in chlorine.

For the outer shell of a wet-dry backpack we use a 420D or 600D TPU-laminated polyester at 10,000 mm, which handles the pool deck, the car boot and the changing room floor. For a mesh bag we use a 2 mm aperture polyester mesh at 180 to 260 gsm, and we deliberately avoid the finer meshes: a 1 mm aperture drains more slowly and it traps grit, while a 4 mm aperture lets a goggle strap and a swim cap through. For a kit bag we use a 600D laminate with a coated base panel and a drain at each end.

• 420D TPU-laminated polyester, 10,000 mm, for a lightweight wet-dry backpack under 700 g
• 600D TPU-laminated polyester, 10,000-14,000 mm, for a club kit bag and a heavy-use backpack
• 840D TPU-laminated nylon at 20,000 mm for an open-water bag base and a triathlon transition bag
• 2 mm aperture polyester mesh at 180-260 gsm for a mesh bag, not finer and not coarser
• A coated base panel on every mesh bag, because a fully open mesh base destroys a car seat and a poolside floor
• A PFC-free durable water repellent finish on any coated face, verified at 90-100 spray rating under AATCC 22

A word on the coated base panel for a mesh bag, because it is the most-requested variation we see and it changes the drainage result. A mesh bag with a coated base drains at about 10.2 L/min against 11.4 L/min for a fully open mesh, and that small loss buys a bag that can be set down on a poolside bench, in a car boot and on a changing room floor without leaving a puddle. We recommend it for every club and team brief. The panel is welded or bonded rather than sewn, and it carries the drain grommets at its two lowest corners.

Ventilation and Odour Control in a Swim Kit Bag

Odour is the reason most swim bags are retired early, and it is a design problem rather than a use problem. A permanently damp bag containing protein residue from skin and sweat is an ideal environment for the bacteria that produce the smell, and the two controls are air movement and drying time. A bag that dries in four hours does not smell. A bag that is still damp after eighteen hours does, and it does so permanently, because the bacterial population establishes in the fabric and no amount of airing afterwards removes it.

We design for a drying time and we measure it. A prototype is loaded with 2 litres of water, drained as it would be, closed and left at 20 degrees C, and weighed at intervals until its returned weight reaches the dry weight. Our target for a wet-dry backpack is under 8 hours and for a mesh bag under 3 hours. Getting there requires a vent path at the top of the wet compartment as well as drains at the bottom, because water leaving as vapour needs a way out of the top.

The measures below are what we build into every swim product, and they are the ones that most affect the eight-hour figure. The first is the most important and the most often omitted, because a compartment with drains and no vent will hold its humidity for far longer than a compartment with both.

• A 10 mm vent path at the top of the wet compartment, baffled downward, paired with the drains at the base
• A raised base with four moulded feet on a coated or laminated bag, so the wet base is not flat on the floor
• An antimicrobial finish on the liner and on any padding, verified for its effect on the bacterial load rather than as a marketing claim
• A removable, washable liner on a club bag, because a bag that can be laundered resets the clock entirely
• A printed care card telling the user to empty and open the bag on return, which is the highest-impact action and the least often taken

On antimicrobial treatments we take a specific position. We apply a finish only where it is verified to reduce the bacterial load on the treated substrate, and we do not describe it as making a bag self-cleaning or hygienic, because it does not. Its effect is to slow the establishment of the population between washes, and the thing that actually controls odour is drying time plus periodic laundering. A brand that sells an antimicrobial bag as a solution to smell will get complaints from users who stop airing the bag because they believe the treatment removes the need.

Goggles, Fins and the Kit Layout Problem

Swim kit is an awkward set of objects and they do not pack well together. Goggles are rigid, easily scratched and ruined by being crushed. Fins are long, stiff, abrasive and wet. A kick board is large and flat. A towel is bulky and absorbent. A costume and a swim cap are small enough to be lost in any pocket. The layout problem is not fitting them all in, it is that the objects that must stay dry and scratch-free are small and rigid while the objects that are wet and abrasive are large and stiff.

Our layout rule is that rigid and sharp objects get their own zones and never share a volume with soft or scratched ones. A goggle case is a moulded or padded pod at the top of the bag, in the dry zone, with a 3 mm EVA wall and a brushed lining. Fins go in an external channel or a side sleeve, never inside the main volume, because a fin abrades from the inside out and its edge works against the seam at the base of the bag. A kick board goes on an external bungee on the front face.

• A padded goggle pod at the top of the dry zone, 3 mm EVA wall and a brushed lining, 180 x 90 x 80 mm internal
• An external fin sleeve or channel, open at the base, never a fin inside the main volume
• A kick board carried on an external bungee on the front face, not inside the bag
• A bottle pocket that is external and drained, because an internal bottle pocket on a swim bag is a claim waiting to happen
• A small-item zip pocket for a swim cap and a membership card, with a 5 mm storm welt over the coil

The goggle pod is the element that generates the most goodwill and it is the cheapest thing on the list. A moulded EVA pod costs a little more than a slip pocket and it prevents the single most common complaint in the category, which is a scratched lens. We mould it as part of the lid or the top panel on larger runs, and on smaller runs we bond a preformed pod into the same position. Either way it sits at the top of the bag where the user's hand goes first and where nothing heavy rests on it.

Poolside versus Open Water Swim Briefs

The swimming market splits into two populations with different requirements, and a bag built for one is noticeably worse for the other. A pool swimmer carries a towel, a costume, goggles and a water bottle, walks a short distance from a changing room to a poolside bench, and has somewhere dry to put the bag. An open-water swimmer carries a wetsuit, two towels, a tow float, goggles and food, walks across sand or a shingle beach, and has nowhere dry to put anything at all.

The wetsuit compartment is the requirement that shapes an open-water bag, and it is not the same as a wet compartment. A wetsuit is heavy, it holds a surprising amount of water in the neoprene, and it needs to be rolled rather than folded, which means the compartment has to be a long tube rather than a cube. We build it as a welded tube across the base of the bag, 700 mm long, accessible from one end, and drained at the other end so the water leaving the wetsuit goes out rather than into the bag. A bag without that tube is a bag that will not be used by an open-water swimmer.

The chloride exposure differs too, and it is worth noting because it changes the material spec. Pool water carries a free chlorine residual, which is the elastic degradation risk, whereas sea water carries salt, which is a crystal-abrasion risk plus a corrosion risk. A bag built for pool use can use a lighter base fabric, because it is set down on a smooth floor. A bag built for open water needs a coated, reinforced base and acetal hardware throughout, and we will not put a plated metal component on one.

Triathlon Transition Bag Requirements

A triathlon transition bag is the most demanding product in the swim category and it is specified by the race rather than by the swim. It has to carry a wetsuit, a helmet, cycling shoes, running shoes, a race belt, nutrition and a change of clothes, and it has to allow the athlete to lay those things out in a defined order at a transition rack while standing in a space 500 mm wide. That is a completely different brief from carrying kit to a pool, and it is the reason we build these on their own patterns.

The defining feature is a zoned interior with a fixed order, so an athlete unpacking in the dark at four in the morning knows where each item is without looking. Our standard layout is a wetsuit tube at the base, a helmet cradle, a shoe bay for two pairs, a nutrition pocket and a race-belt clip point, in that vertical order. Each zone is a different colour and each is labelled, because a transition bag used at 4 am is a bag used by feel.

• A welded wetsuit tube at the base, 700 mm, accessible from one end and drained at the other
• A helmet cradle with a 5 mm EVA wall, at the top, because a helmet is the most crushable item in the kit
• A shoe bay sized for two pairs, one cycling and one running, with a divider between them
• A nutrition pocket with a wipe-clean liner, because gels leak and a liner that cannot be wiped is ruined in one race
• A race-belt clip point and a number-belt channel, the two items an athlete needs last and fastest

There is one requirement specific to this product that no other bag has: the bag has to stand up on its own and stay open. An athlete in transition is crouched beside it with a wet wetsuit in one hand and cannot hold the bag open with a free hand that does not exist. We put a moulded or a wired collar at the mouth of the bag so it stays open and a stiffened base so it stands, and we consider those two elements structural requirements rather than features. A transition bag that falls over in a windy transition area is a genuine race problem.

Closures and Carry on a Wet Pool Deck

The pool deck is the most demanding surface a bag is used on. It is wet, it is tiled, it is treated with the same chemicals as the water, and it is used barefoot by people carrying things. A bag used on a pool deck has to stand up rather than fall over, it has to have a base that does not leave a puddle, and its closures have to be operable by someone whose hands are wet and whose other hand is holding a towel. Every one of those is a specification, and together they rule out most of the hardware used on land.

We use a drawcord or a three-fold roll on the main volume, never a toothed zip, because a zip on a bag that is permanently damp internally will carry grit and chlorine residue into the coil and the slider will fail within a season. Where a zip is needed for a pocket we use a coil zip with a welt and a large-format slider pull, because a small pull cannot be gripped with a wet hand. On the base, four moulded feet keep the wet surface off the floor and let air move underneath, which contributes directly to the eight-hour drying target.

The feet on the base are the item clients most often ask to remove for cost, and they are the reason we do not. Four moulded feet are the difference between a bag whose wet base sits on a clean dry floor and one that leaves a puddle on a changing room bench, and they also lift the base far enough for air to move under it, which is a measurable part of the drying time. On a coated-base mesh bag they are the reason the bag can be set down anywhere. We specify them on every swim product we build over 15 L.

Failure Modes Seen on Returned Swim Bags

Swim bags are returned for reasons that are almost entirely predictable, and the predictability is the useful part: every one of these is a specification decision that can be made correctly at the sampling stage at little or no unit cost. This list is in rough order of frequency and it comes from the returns and the complaints we have seen in this category.

1. An elasticated pocket mouth going slack after one season. The elastic has a rubber or an elastane core that chlorine destroys. Fix: a silicone-cored shock cord with a cord lock, or a webbing-and-cord-lock arrangement.
2. A grommet tearing out of the base of the wet compartment. The grommet is set into a single layer of fabric. Fix: set into a 60 mm reinforcement patch of the body material, welded or bonded rather than inserted.
3. A permanently smelling bag that the user cannot recover. The bag takes over eighteen hours to dry and the bacterial population establishes. Fix: a vent at the top of the wet compartment as well as drains at the base, plus four moulded feet.
4. A scratched goggle lens. Goggles share a volume with fins and a water bottle. Fix: a padded pod at the top of the dry zone, 3 mm EVA with a brushed lining, and an external fin channel.
5. A zip that will not run after two months. Grit and chlorine residue in the coil of an exposed toothed zip. Fix: a drawcord or a roll on the main volume, and a welded welt over any pocket coil.
6. A coated base that has crazed and peeled. The coating was not chlorine-stable. Fix: a TPU laminate on the wet compartment, verified by the 200-hour chlorine soak cycle before approval.

The first item on that list is the one we have the strongest view about, because it looks like a minor detail and it is the single biggest driver of early replacement in the category. An elasticated pocket mouth is a standard, cheap, attractive detail that a designer puts on a bag without thinking, and in a swim bag it is the first thing to fail. We remove elastane from every swim specification we write and we say why in the quotation, because a client who has not worked in this category will otherwise specify it and then discover the problem a season later.

Branding and Colourway for Swim Club Lines

Swim products are sold through two channels that want opposite things. A club and team buyer wants a durable item with a large, legible club crest on it, bought in volume and replaced on a two or three year cycle. A retail buyer wants a product that looks considered, in a colourway that a swimmer will choose for themselves. The two are not the same product and we build them differently, and the first question we ask a client is which channel they are selling into.

For a club brief we recommend a screen print or a heat-transfer crest on a flat panel of the shell, with a 3 mm rounded corner radius, and we place it where it will not contact the pool deck. For a retail brief we recommend a moulded TPU or a silicone badge, or a woven label sewn into a seam allowance, both of which survive the chlorine and the laundering that a retail swim bag gets. A direct print onto a mesh is not possible, so a mesh bag is branded with a woven label or a printed panel insert.

• Club crest: screen print or heat transfer on a flat shell panel, 3 mm rounded corners, placed off the base contact area
• Retail badge: moulded TPU or silicone, welded or sewn into a seam allowance, survives laundering
• A name panel with a wipe-clean writing surface on a club bag, because club bags are shared and swapped
• A light-coloured interior on every product, because a black interior in a wet-dark bag is unusable
• Colourway: one shell colour with the accent on the binding, the drawcord and the pull loops, to hold the 500 pcs minimum

The name panel is a small thing that matters enormously in the club channel, and it is a good example of the difference between the two markets. A club bag is used by a squad, the bags are identical, and they get mixed up constantly. A 120 x 60 mm panel with a wipe-clean surface and a printed name costs very little and it is the reason a club reorders from the same supplier, because a club cannot move to a competitor without their members losing a feature they use every session. Our contact page is the fastest route to a club quotation.

MOQ, Sampling and Swim Bag Lead Times

The commercial terms for a swim programme are the ones we publish for every category. Minimum order is 500 pcs per style per colour. Sampling is 6-10 working days for a mesh bag, a wet-dry backpack or a club holdall, and 12-15 working days where the brief calls for a moulded goggle pod, a wired collar on a transition bag or a custom welded compartment. Bulk production is 35-50 days from sample approval, inspection is to AQL 2.5 under ISO 2859-1, and the trade terms are FOB Xiamen with T/T 30 percent deposit and 70 percent before shipment.

1. Brief received with the format, the capacity, and whether the market is pool, open water or triathlon
2. Material proposal with the chlorine-stable material set, the drainage target and the drying target stated as numbers
3. Prototype built on production tooling in 6-10 working days, or 12-15 with a moulded component
4. Drainage rate measured, drying time measured, and the chlorine soak cycle started on the finished sample
5. One revision round if required, at 6-10 working days, then approval and deposit
6. Bulk production in 35-50 days with in-line checks and a final AQL 2.5 inspection before FOB Xiamen shipment

QUANZHOU JUNYUAN BAGS has produced sewn and welded bag programmes since 2014, and our founder has worked in the category since 2004. Our validated production partner facility is SGS-verified at 4,950 square metres with 7 production lines, 149 machines, 137 staff and a monthly capacity of 200,000 pieces. QC runs to ISO 9001-aligned procedures and a BSCI audit can be hosted, with product compliance covering CE, CPC, RoHS and REACH, material testing supported by SGS, and fabric components worked to OEKO-TEX criteria. Contact service@junyuanbags.com or WhatsApp +86 177 5002 0688, or start from our custom development page.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How fast should a swim bag drain?

A: We require 80 percent of 4 litres to leave a wet-dry backpack within 20 seconds of it being lifted, which is a rate of about 9.6 L/min, and 90 percent for a mesh bag. That needs four 8 mm grommets set into reinforcement patches and a compartment floor cut to a shallow V toward them, because two grommets leaves 1.4 litres still in the bag.

Q2: Why do you not use elastic in swim bags?

A: Because the chlorine residual carried by a wet towel degrades a rubber or an elastane core, and an elasticated pocket mouth goes slack within a season. We use a silicone-cored shock cord with a cord lock instead, which survives the exposure and is the single most common premature failure we see on bags not designed for this category.

Q3: What material should a wet compartment use?

A: A 420D TPU-laminated polyester at 10,000 mm, with the seams welded rather than taped. A taped seam weeps into the dry volume under a full load, and a PVC coating is ruled out because chlorine accelerates plasticiser migration. The compartment wall must continue to the rim, so water cannot slop into the dry volume when the bag is carried tilted.

Q4: How long should a swim bag take to dry?

A: Under 8 hours for a wet-dry backpack and under 3 hours for a mesh bag, measured by weighing the bag until it returns to its dry weight. Achieving that needs a vent path at the top of the wet compartment as well as drains at the base, plus four moulded feet to lift the wet base off the floor so air can move under it.

Q5: Does an antimicrobial treatment stop a swim bag smelling?

A: It slows the establishment of the bacterial population between washes, and we apply it only where it is verified to reduce the load on the treated substrate. It does not make a bag self-cleaning. The thing that actually controls odour is a short drying time plus periodic laundering, and a user who stops airing the bag because they trust the treatment will get a smelly bag.

Q6: What size bag does a swimmer need?

A: 20-30 L for pool use, which holds a towel, a costume, goggles and a bottle. Open water needs 40-60 L because a wetsuit is bulky, and it needs a welded wetsuit tube across the base rather than a wet compartment, because a wetsuit is rolled rather than folded and it holds a surprising amount of water.

Q7: How should goggles be carried in a swim bag?

A: In a padded pod at the top of the dry zone, with a 3 mm EVA wall and a brushed lining, about 180 x 90 x 80 mm internally. Sharing a volume with fins and a bottle is the single most common cause of a scratched lens, and a moulded or bonded pod is the cheapest way to prevent it.

Q8: Why can fins not go inside a swim bag?

A: Because a fin is stiff and abrasive and its edge works against the seam at the base of the bag from the inside, which is how the base of a swim bag fails. We carry fins in an external sleeve or channel, open at the base so they drain, and a kick board on an external bungee on the front face.

Q9: What makes a triathlon transition bag different?

A: It is specified by the race rather than by the swim. It needs zoned storage in a fixed vertical order so an athlete unpacking at four in the morning works by feel, and it needs a stiffened base and a wired or moulded collar so it stands up and stays open, because an athlete in transition has no free hand to hold it.

Q10: What is the minimum order quantity for swim bags?

A: The minimum is 500 pcs per style per colour, so a two-colour launch is a 1,000-piece commitment. Most brands launch one shell colour with the accent on the binding, the drawcord and the pull loops, and club buyers often take a single colourway in volume because the bags are issued to a squad.

Q11: How long does swim bag sampling take?

A: Sampling is 6-10 working days for a mesh bag, a wet-dry backpack or a club holdall, and 12-15 where the brief needs a moulded goggle pod, a wired collar or a custom welded compartment. The prototype ships with its measured drainage rate, its measured drying time and the chlorine soak result.

Q12: What is the bulk production lead time for swim bags?

A: Bulk production takes 35-50 days from sample approval, depending on fabric availability and on whether moulded components are involved. Repeat orders against retained tooling typically run in a shorter 30-40 day window, and all shipments move on FOB Xiamen with T/T 30 percent deposit and 70 percent before shipment.

Q13: Which inspection level do you use for swim bag orders?

A: We inspect to AQL 2.5 under ISO 2859-1 as standard. For a swim bag, a critical defect includes any drain grommet missing its reinforcement patch, any elastic component with an elastane core, any welded seam in the wet compartment that fails the weep test, and any base without the specified moulded feet.

Q14: Can a swim bag be branded on mesh?

A: Not by direct printing, because there is no surface to print onto. A mesh bag is branded with a woven label sewn into a seam allowance, or with a printed panel insert on a coated area such as the base panel or a binding tape. For a retail bag we use a moulded TPU or silicone badge on a non-mesh panel.

People Also Ask

• What is the best bag for swimming kit?
• How do I stop my swim bag smelling?
• Should a swim bag have a wet compartment?
• What size swim bag do I need for a wetsuit?
• Why does elastic break in swim bags?
• What should a triathlon transition bag hold?